Best time
October to April is the best window: clear skies, dry trails to the root bridges and the Umngot at Dawki at its clearest from about November, with cold nights in December and January. June to September is the monsoon in one of the wettest places on earth, when the waterfalls are at their fullest but the trails are slippery, the river turns murky and landslides can slow the roads.
- October to November, 12 to 22°C: The best all-round weeks: the rain has eased, the waterfalls are still full, the trails to the root bridges are drying out and the Umngot at Dawki is turning clear.
- December to February, 3 to 16°C: Cool, dry and clear: the Umngot is at its clearest and the treks are easiest, though the waterfalls run thinner and Shillong nights are cold. Christmas and New Year are the busiest weeks.
- March to May, 12 to 24°C: Pleasant days and green hills; pre-monsoon showers start in April and May, and the Kaziranga add-on is still possible early in the season.
- June to September, 15 to 24°C: The monsoon in one of the wettest places on earth: the waterfalls are at their most dramatic, but the trails are slippery, the Umngot turns murky, boating can stop when the river is high and landslides can slow the hill roads.
What to pack
Layers in every month: a fleece or light jacket for Shillong evenings from March to November, and a warm jacket, thermals and a cap from December to February, when nights are near freezing. A rain jacket or umbrella all year and especially from June to September; shoes with a good grip for the Nongriat steps and the bamboo trek, plus sandals, quick-dry clothes and swimwear for Krang Suri and Dawki. A torch, a power bank, insect repellent, motion-sickness tablets for the hill roads, some cash because ATMs are few outside the towns, and a government photo ID.
Getting there
From Hyderabad, fly to Guwahati, non-stop or with one stop through Kolkata or Delhi depending on the day. Every trip starts at Guwahati airport or railway station, and Shillong is about three hours up the hill road from there. The train to Guwahati takes well over a day, so most travellers fly.
From Bengaluru, fly to Guwahati, non-stop or through Kolkata or Delhi depending on the day. The trip starts at Guwahati airport or station, where your cab or the backpacking group meets you, and Shillong is about three hours by road. Trains to Guwahati take more than two days.
From Chennai, fly to Guwahati, directly or through Kolkata, Delhi or Bengaluru depending on the day. Every trip begins at Guwahati airport or station, about three hours below Shillong by road; the train takes well over a day.
Permits and fees
Indian citizens do not need an Inner Line Permit for Meghalaya; carry a government photo ID. The Mawphlang sacred grove can only be walked with a local guide, paid at the gate. The longer trips into Arunachal Pradesh need an Inner Line Permit, which those trip pages include or help with, and foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit for Arunachal; tell the planner before booking. Rules change, so confirm before you book.