Best time
June to September is the season, when every road and circuit is open and the bike expeditions run; June and July are the busiest, September is calmer. April, May and October are cold shoulder months flown into Leh, and November to March is winter, for frozen lakes and serious cold.
- April to May, 0 to 20°C: The shoulder season: Leh warms up and flights are the way in; the high roads and passes open through May and June as they are cleared.
- June to September, 10 to 25°C: The season: every road and circuit open, Pangong blue, the Hemis festival in June or July and the bike expeditions running. June and July are the busiest; September is calmer.
- October, -5 to 15°C: Crisp, golden and quiet; nights turn freezing and the Manali road closes with the first heavy snow.
- November to March, -20 to 5°C: Winter Ladakh: flights only, frozen lakes and serious cold, for travellers who come for the snow and the silence.
What to pack
Layers for every month: thermals, a fleece, a down or padded jacket and a woollen cap, because Pangong and Nubra drop close to freezing at night even in July. Sunglasses with UV protection, SPF 50, lip balm and a scarf for the dust on the passes; sturdy shoes; a refillable bottle for the two to three litres of water a day the altitude needs; and any altitude medicine only on your doctor's advice.
Getting there
From Hyderabad, fly to Leh; most itineraries connect through Delhi, which has the most flights into Leh. The bike expeditions and most private trips start at Leh airport, and the Zanskar and Manali–Leh–Srinagar trips start in Delhi. Plan the first two days in Leh as rest, since flying straight to 3,500 m needs the time.
From Bengaluru, fly to Leh, usually connecting through Delhi. Trips start at Leh airport, or in Delhi for the overland Zanskar and Manali–Leh–Srinagar routes, and keep the first two days easy for the altitude.
From Chennai, fly to Leh through Delhi. Most trips start at Leh airport with two easy days before the high passes; the overland trips start in Delhi and reach Leh by the Manali or Srinagar road in the warmer months.
Permits and fees
Indian citizens do not need an Inner Line Permit for Ladakh; the Leh council's permit portal says it applies only to foreign tourists. Visitors pay the council's environment (green) fee of ₹400 per person online at lahdclehpermit.in before heading to the Nubra, Pangong, Tso Moriri or Hanle circuits, and the checkposts ask for the slip and a photo ID. On our trips the planner registers the group and pays it with your ID details. Foreign nationals need a permit as well; tell the planner before booking.
